Parawood is also known as Rubber wood as it is a tree that produces latex. It’s density is rated at a 960 on the Janka hardness scale which is harder than Black Cherry but not as hard as Red Oak. Parawood is plantation grown for its rubber and produces latex for 25 to 30 years. At the end of its rubber producing years, it is harvested and used for furniture. They then plant a new tree to start the rubber production over again.
Liquid stains are the consistency of water and Gel stains are the consistency of yogurt. Liquid stains do not get much darker with multiple coats of stain due to the wood becoming saturated. Once the wood is saturated, it cannot take more color unless you tint your top coat. Gel stain, however, has a small percentage of polyurethane in it. This allows it to bond to itself so it can be layered to achieve deeper and darker colors. You can also use Gel stain on fiberglass doors! Both Liquid and Gel stains do better when you top coat them with polyurethane, varnish or lacquer finishes.
Because of the nearly endless possibilities! Who wants to be limited by the 2-3 colors some manufacturer deems trendy right now? Not me! We intentionally bring in a good portion of unfinished furniture so you can select the color that works with your home decor. You see, with unfinished furniture there are nearly endless possibilities in color & design. Whether you are trying to get a new dining set to match Grandmas antique china cabinet, picking out a bedroom set to compliment your flooring, or spicing up a room with some Moroccan flavor, unfinished furniture gives you the option to make it the color you want. How exciting is that?!
Real wood furniture is hearty and long lasting but not indestructible. Please take care of your investment by following these recommended tips for care and extended life.
We do not offer shipping at this time. However, we do deliver anywhere within a 150 mile radius of our location. Give us a call if your location is not listed on our Delivery Info page.
Yes we do! There is not much we cannot produce. You can choose the type of wood, styling, sizing and function of the piece that you need and we can provide a 3D rendering and a price.
♦ All year round, Military and First Responders are eligible for 10% Off any regular price furniture item.
[Provide ID Card for Discount. For use on furniture items only. Not applicable on Sale items or in combination with other sales, clearance items, specials, finishing supplies or custom finishing.]
♦ A few times a year we run a 20% Off Sale. Sign up for our mailing list to be notified when they happen!
→ Revolution Fabrics
F55 Greenlight Buff
F56 Greenlight Misty Gray
F58 Greenlight Mirage
F65 Ranger Cactus
F68 Caliente Flax
F69 Caliente Brown Spice
F70 Renegade Charcoal
F72 Renegade Coffee
F73 Renegade Black
F74 Star Island / Navy
F75 Star Island / Stone
F77 Haberdash / Beige
F79 Haberdash / Gray
F80 Hayride / Blue
F81 Hayride / Black
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F26 Prismatic Sand
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F47 Beyond Mink
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“W”—Code W stands for ‘Water based cleaner’ and these are the easiest fabrics to clean. This is not the same as being machine washable, however. This code means that you can spot clean your fabric with a water-based shampoo or foam upholstery cleaner. You can use a brush to agitate the cleaner or even an upholstery attachment on a carpet cleaner. Be careful to avoid over-wetting the stain.
“S”—Fabrics that are Code S must be cleaned with solvents (dry clean only). You can spot treat stains with a water-free solvent or dry-cleaning product. Use solvent cleaners in a well-ventilated room and keep away from open flames. Avoid using cleaning products containing carbon tetrachloride, as it is highly toxic.
“W/S”— (Or SW) A W/S code, as you might expect, means that a combination of dry cleaning solvents and water-based cleaners may be used. These fabrics can be spot cleaned with upholstery shampoo, foam from a mild detergent, or a mild dry cleaning solvent. This is a case where the pre-test is especially important. For overall dirt, call a professional to clean these fabrics.
Congratulations on your purchase of ready-to-finish furniture! Each piece of real wood furniture is an “original”, the result of nature’s handiwork. Every item has its own grain pattern and color, according to the character of the wood. Light and dark areas, such as knots, blend during the finishing process to produce the uniquely attractive look of real wood furniture.
While you may paint, varnish, or finish your furniture in other ways, we will talk about one of the most commonly used finishing processes – staining and top coating. To help you get the best results, here are some tips to keep in mind as you prepare to finish your furniture using this method.
Your furniture has been pre-sanded, but most unfinished pieces need additional fine sanding. Sand lightly over the whole piece using 100 to 220 grit sandpaper (grit depends on the type of wood). The objective in pre-sanding is to remove any dirt that may be in the wood during shipping. Also sand any areas that are not very smooth. You don’t need to sand extensively, just enough to get the super rough areas. The main reason for not sanding much is because once you put a wet substance on wood, it swells the grain and makes it rough again. This is very normal. The sanding you do between your coats of finish will smooth this out. This step should only take you 5 to 10 minutes.
Once you have sanded your piece, wipe off the dust created by sanding with a dry cloth. You are now ready to stain your piece of furniture. Stir the stain to be sure it is thoroughly mixed. Using a cotton cloth (old T-shirt), wipe on the stain with the grain. Do a test spot in an inconspicuous area so you can be sure of the stain color before proceeding. Stain one surface area at a time. Once you have completed staining that area, you should go back over that area with a clean rag and smooth out any rag marks you may have created. Let your stain dry a minimum of 8 hours. We recommend over night in more humid conditions. If you desire the color to be a little darker, add one more coat of stain the same way you did the first. More than two coats of stain will not do much to the color. Once the staining is done, do not sand, only sand after the Polyurethane.
You are now ready to put on your first coat of finish. Make sure that the stain is completely dry before you put your finish on. Apply the Top Coat (Polyurethane / Arm r Seal) the same way you put on the stain, with a cotton rag. Again, wipe it with the grain and just what the wood will accept. Let that coat dry overnight. The next day, lightly sand with the grain using 600 grit sandpaper or a Fine Sanding Sponge. Your piece of furniture is going to be pretty rough, but this is normal. Wipe off the dust with a dry cloth.
Apply your second coat of Polyurethane the same as the first. Again, lightly sand the entire piece. This time it should be almost completely smooth. Again, wipe off the dust with a dry rag.
This is your last coat of finish. Apply it the same as the first two. Let it dry overnight. If it is not as smooth as you would like it to be, you can apply a fourth coat. Sometimes this is needed because the wood absorbed more of the finish. After your final application, do not sand. It is ready to use. Enjoy your masterpiece.